f) Engine Rebuild (top end)

This rebuild should be pretty straight forward.  Basic 1974 British 6 banger.  The first thing, after mounting the engine into the stand was to pull the head, surprisingly enough….it came right off.  Here are a couple of pictures before the removal followed by the removal of the rocker shaft assembly.  I will not cover the intake & exhaust manifolds, they were simply sand blasted & painted.

Engine a

Top Photo:  Engine Mounted in the stand

Bottom Photo:  Valve Cover Removed

Engine Dis 2

Rocker Shaft Assembly Removed.  The valve springs were in a stationary position for as many as 15 years.  They will be replaced as I believe that they have taken a set.

Engine Dis 4

The next series of pictures show 1) as removed head & valves, 2) valves removed and seats re-lapped.  I retained the intake valves as they were in nice shape, then finally, 3) Rebuilt head with new exhaust valves and new valve springs.  The valve guides were well within the clearance specifications so they were not replaced and the head base was flat so it was not re-surfaced.

Head 1

Head 3

Some brass brushes and WD40 and she cleans up real well.  I used 220 & 280 Grit Clover lapping compound on the valve seats and cleaned out all of the ports and cooling chambers.  I’ll rechase the spark plug threads next.

Head 10

valves done 1

Finally the rocker shaft needed replacement as a couple of the rockers were binding on the worn shaft.  Here is the finished head, I thought red would look nice.

rocker assy done 2
new rocker shaft
head done 1
Complete and looking good

Now it is off to the bowels of the power plant “the lower end”

See:  TR6 Engine Rebiuld (Lower End)


Now let’s finish up the Engine in this final step.

The Bottom End is complete and it is now time to re-install the head.  First you will see that I cleared out all of the cam follower holes and cleaned, Lubed and re-installed the cam followers.  This was followed by the installation of a new set of ARP head Bolts.  Before installing the head gasket I added a precautionary bead of gasket sealer along the push-rod side of the head as it is away from the pressure (torque) of the head bolts.  Now the head gasket was installed and the head was dropped on and head bolts torqued.

Cam Followers Installed

New ARP Head Bolts

Head Installed

Next I cleaned up and lubed the Push-rods prior to assembly and put them in-place along with the rocker shaft being sure to align each push-rod with it’s rocker.  The rocker shaft was then torqued.

Rocker shaft installed

It was getting to cold out in the shed to continue, but the next step will be to adjust each of the rocker clearances and button up the top end.

The following weekend I fired up a propane heater and set the Rocker Clearance.  I set all of the rockers to 0.010″ or so (the best I could).  Then I went back and double checked them after a couple of rotations of the crank.

Rocker Clearance (0.010″)

I then put the engine timing at 0 degrees and inserted the distributor gear in the proper orientation.  I can now button up the top end and head off to the Transmission.  Outside of a couple of bolt-on items, the remainder of the engine will be assembled after reinstalling onto the frame more towards spring time.

Distributor Gear

Finishing Up the Engine

Since the last update I have painted the car and rolled it back inside to begin final assembly.

The very first thing I did was install the distributor with a new set of Points / Condenser / Cap & Rotor.  I made sure to align the timing as close to the spec as I could so when it comes time to fire it up I should be close enough.

Fuel Lines installed up to the Fuel Pump.  I used Copper lines because I think they look cool,

Fuel & Brake Lines

Next I installed the Intake and Exhaust Manifolds after cleaning them up a bit.

Exhaust Manifold IMG_5222 Intake Manifold

I then picked up the Carb rebuild Kit from Victoria British and tore down both of the Strombergs.  The rebuild kits are primarily made up of gaskets and O-rings.  I needed to purchase a few additional components separately to complete the rebuild

Installed the Carbs.  Now I just need to install the Final Fuel Line routing and Hoses.

CIMG7988 CIMG7986 CIMG7987

Check Out the completed look (no air cleaners yet) but it is a clean assembly.




It fired right up and ran well first try.

First Start Video

Published on November 7, 2009 at 11:26 pm  Comments (4)  

The URI to TrackBack this entry is: https://ffr5355.wordpress.com/about/f-tr6-engine-rebuild-top-end/trackback/

RSS feed for comments on this post.

4 CommentsLeave a comment

  1. tanks

    • Looks good got a rebuild coming up soon gonna go with red engine paint new SU carbs and a stainless exhaust ooh and I am in qld Australia have to do it in winter here too hot in summer love your work

  2. Any advice on the first start of rebuilt motor, precautions prior to driving it & up to X miles?

    • Check all fluids, fire extiguisher near by, dont let it run long, shut down and double check things before any prolonged runs. Verify oil pressure

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: